Apr 18 2009

Sariska National Park

Another early wake up call today as we went on our final safari of the trip, this time to Sariska National Park, between Jaipur and Delhi.

Sariska has always been overshadowed by its neighbouring Ranthambhore as there's been more tigers and Ranthambhore for many years. In 2005 Sariska hit the headlines big time when the tiger population, estimated at 20/25, completely disappeared overnight. Many stories discuss what happened but it's believed that they were all poached after locals were bribed. Whatever actually happened doesn't actually matter, it's just very, very sad.

Within the last few months a total of three tigers have been moved from Ranthambhore, where the tiger population is (allegedly) growing. (Maybe if they hadn't had moved those three I might have had a better glimpse of a tiger at Ranthambhore!)

We'd planned to go to Sariska way before I'd heard that there were actually tigers there but of course knowing about them added a bit of excitement during the safari. Of course, we never saw one, nor any other of the cats that are meant to live there. But if the lady at our hotel is to be believed then she saw one tiger, one leopard and a jungle cat, all in a single safari. So there's hope for Sariska.

Part way through the safari you enter the 'tiger re-introduced area' and stop to view some of the pugmarks (paw prints) cast in plaster. Not very interesting but there's some very tame Treepies (think colourful Magpies) there that will eat from your hand. Of course, the girls were too scared to try it so Dad got thrust forward - Jane had the video camera - to feed them. I put a piece of Marks and Sparks finest shortbread (that we'd carried around the whole of Rajasthan!) in my palm and held my uncovered arm out. It would have been wise to have worn long sleeves that day. Three treepies landed, had a fight on my arm, clawed me, ate and flew off. Not so nice; I tried again and only one bird, so no fighting, much better.

We did nice loads of wildlife on the safari and I'd really recommend Sariska to anyone passing by; it's certainly worth a visit. We saw birds (kingfishers, treepies, egrets, storks, herons and more), crocodiles, sambar deer, chittal deer and more.

It wasn't particularly cheap for us and we had to pay Rs1000 (15 quid) for a taxi there. Then entrance fees we're Rs200 each (apart from Amy who was free), Rs125 jeep entry ticket and Rs900 paid separately to the man with the jeep. So, Rs1625 (about 23 quid) for the safari and Rs1000 get there (which was way overpriced but we had little choice).

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Apr 14 2009

Ranthambhore Safaris

Ranthambhore seems a nice place to relax a little. Our hotel has a nice pool and nice gardens, the room's okay and the food hasn't killed me yet - I doubt it'll take much to finish me off, maybe just a "wafer thin mint" will do it.

So early to bed as the safari started at 6am, alarm set for 5am, kids set their mental alarm to start moaning at 5:05am that it's too early and they just want more sleep.

We get picked up by our eight seater jeep; four seats for us; one for the driver; one for the guide/naturalist; two for a father and son from 'up north' in Matlock. And we're off, off on our first safari in India. I'm so excited, click my 70-300 zoom on the SLR and I'm all set.

We're been allocated zone 3 which I've heard is one of the best so this just adds to the excitement.

In the park we see loads of deer/antelopes, many species of birds and I'm astounded at how often the scenery changes compared to my travels in the Serengeti, Tsavo and Amboseli.

Click, click, click. And again. And again.

Suddenly word gets around that a tiger has been spotted in the long (8 foot tall) grass near one of the lakes. We wait, and a bit more waiting, followed by more waiting split up by some more waiting. About 30 minutes in total it seems.

Suddenly the tiger leaps out of the grass, two hundred or so yards away, chasing a wild boar, which she misses. Dejected, she goes back to the grass: it's all over in 60 seconds.

Our first tiger spot. Fantastic. I'm chuffed.

Photos are here

 

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Apr 09 2009

Horse Riding In Udaipur - by Emilia

Early in the morning, I awoke because I was going to ride an indian horse; I was excited.

In my mind I thought: what are the horses going to be like?; how tall are they (10 feet tall - only joking)?; how fast are they?

Half an hour later, my mum, sister and I caught a tuk-tuk to the stables, when then got ridiculous hats which were large; mine was light sky blue! Next, we went to get our horses, mine was chestnut brown. Amazingly, I managed to get on the horse without a box to stand on; this for me was a great achievement as I normally use one when I go horse riding in England.

 I was lead through the countryside, the hills, countryside villages and rocky slopes. In the villages, everyone who we passed said 'Namaste' to us and was very friendly.

Afterwards, we went to a waterhole, there were boys fishing and having a swim; they caught two fish. Funnily, there was a boy who was naked, he jumped into the water and acted like a fish and did backflips off of a rock.

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Mar 31 2009

Keoladeo National Park: Twittering About Twitching

Watching birds isn't really my thing but the Keoladeo National Park is reputed to be one of the best bird sanctuaries in the World: it seemed worth a day's exploration. It's a very good place to escape the masses of people in the big cities (Agra, Delhi) and to be able to wander around, or cycle, is just wonderful.

Today we spent eight hours, with a guide, spotting birds and looking for a nice big Indian Rock Python to take a photo of.  We found one quite soon after feeding turtles and Macaque monkeys are the Hindu temple in the park.

If you listen to what people say about the place you HAVE to get there very early to see any activity at all. We arrived at 10am and thought we'd only last a couple of hours but the heat wasn't too bad as there was a lovely breeze cooling us down. We saw bird after bird after bird including Ibis(es?), Storks, Owls, Eagles and many, many more. Our guide was very good at spotting and brought along a pair of binoculars and a spotting scope on a tripod for us to use.

Now yesterday at the Taj Mahal I managed to hold myself back and only took 100 photos, but today, I just couldn't help myself and shot a few hundred - they're probably all rubbish but I MUST have got at least one good one. Thanks to the guys in my team at work I took virtually all the photos using my new monopod that they bought me this last Christmas; it was brilliant and I couldn't have done without it.

Unfortunately the Rainbow Cyber Cafe here in sleepy old Bharatpur has done a good job of hiding ths USB slots on the PC so I can't upload any of the images without risking thumbling in the dark and switching the PC off! But keep any eye on the Winchcombe Gallery at www.winchcombe.org/gallery.aspx for some India photos: I'll upload when I can.

We're staying at the Hotel Sunbird, which is really nice albeit quite simple. Food is pretty good at 90 rupees (£1.30) for a nice curry; naans come in at a hefty Rs30 (£0.45).

Tomorrow we're off to Jaipur (3.5 hours by car) to see the Amber Fort and hopefully we'll get to ride an elephant.

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Feb 11 2009

Preparing The Kids (Part III) - TV

Luckily, England has a fascination of India and this extends into our television programmes, including documentaries about cities/wildlife/travel/religion/gardens and children's educational programmes.

So armed with a Windows Media Center that will record any programme containing (in it's title or description) the words 'India', 'Rajasthan', 'Tiger' and 'Maha'*, we've ended up with loads to watch over the last nine months or so. Some of this is very good stuff for the kids, others not.

  • Firstly, there's a wealth of regular programmes that have 10 minutes on India. Usually not very informative, they're still worth watching. This include holiday programmes like Holiday Showdown and other holiday shows, one-off wildlife documentaries.
  • Primary Geography is a series of 10-15 minute children's educational programmes all about kids in India. There's an overview programme, one about Kerala, one about Rajasthan and many more. The Rajasthan one included footage of a boy who lived in the area near Sam/Khuri desert and another part featuring the niece of the current Maharaja of Jodphur.
  • Paul Merton In India was quite a good series where Paul saw some of the more unusual/eccentric elements of the country. I thought it was done quite well as at he always promoted the activities with an open eye, daunted at first, respectful at the end.
  • Tiger, Spy In The Jungle was a series following tigers within Pench Tiger Reserve in Maharastra. As with all BBC and Sir David Attenborough the quality and content are superb.
  • India with Sanjeev Bhaskar. For me the jury is out on this one and it's interesting that the first site I found (linked in on the left) felt the same way. I like Sanjeev as a comedian but as a documentary lead I just found him a bit too up himself. Unlike, Merton, he didn't seem to want to get too close to the locals, apart from when he was retracing his ancestry to Pakistan. Still, there's great footage includingn interesting time spotting tigers, in Pench, where it took him two weeks to find a tiger. Funnily enough this series was shown on TV at the same time as Tiger Spy In The Jungle, so perhaps Sanjeev should have followed Sir David around, he may have had better luck.
  • Michael Wood The Story Of India. A bit too old for the kids but we showed them the more interesting parts.

The BBC has a list of India & Pakistan related shows, most of which are finished but are bound to be repeated.

I thoroughly enjoyed most of the TV shows listed above too, but I was on a roll with the title 'Preparing The Kids' so I couldn't rename it halfyway through!!!


* keyword of Maha was included just in case Mahabharata ever turned up again on telly. Having read the book in 1996 it's never been back on TV.

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Feb 05 2009

Booking Safaris in Ranthambhore National Park

There's lots of advice about Ranthambhore but some bits are still quite lacking especially when it comes to the safaris themselves.

Some things I'll go through here, but I won't have answers to some of my questions (where is the departure point for safaris, how do you actually get from your hotel to the departure point, which is the nearest hotel to the departure point) until I return. 

 

Types  Of  Safari

There are two safaris per day, one very early in the morning - mine start at 5:30am! - and one mid-afternoon - mine start at 2:30pm.

You can book on either a 'Gypsy' (6 seats, + driver + guide, petrol) or a 'Canter' (20 seats + driver + guide, diesel).

For more information there's a very good thread on IndiaMike that I've been involved with named Ranthambor Info: Jeeps, Canters and all that jazz. Read this, you'll learn loads.

 

Pictures of a Gypsy and a Canter:

 

Booking

Everyone advises that you should book your safari direct on the Government of Rajasthan Department of Forest web site using the Ranthambhore Online Bookings page. Booking is available for dates 90 days in advance, but just like trains, but unlike flights, there's no point in waiting as the price never gets better. So, as with trains, if you know when you're going to be at Ranthambhore you might as well book up.

At the time of writing the prices are as follows for a foreign national like me: Canter:Rs547 Gypsy:Rs64, about £8.5 and £10 respectively.

So you're talking about Rs100 (£1.50 ish) extra per safari for the benefit of only 6 people in the same vehicle. It's no contest, why would you even consider a Canter is a Gypsy is available? Coupled with the fact that the canters are diesel.

 

Paying For The Booking

Booking the safaris isn't much trouble: go to the site, select the date, enter the number of morning and/or evening places you want, fill-in the details about each person, including names and passport numbers and then proceed to pay for it all.

It gets interesting when you have to enter your credit card details.

You enter all of your info and credit card details and then (I'm guessing) the site realises it can't handle your international credit card and forwards you to payment gateway number 2.

 

Again, you enter all of your info and credit card details and then (I'm guessing) the site realises it can't handle you international credit card and forwards you to PayPal.

You log in to Paypal and pay and the booking is made.

Throughout this process you're never informed that you're being redirected due to your international credit card and more importantly you never get the chance to say 'Hey, I've got an internation credit card please take me straight to Paypal.

NOTE: I've read that others have had trouble trying to pay via Paypal when their Paypal account only has a credit card attached and no bank account. For me this wasn't a problem as my Paypal payments come straight out of my bank account.

 

 

Timing

As I said earlier, just book it up, why wait?

The proof is in the pudding for me: I booked as soon as I could and got just what I wanted. Today, one month on 40% of the seats have gone.

Obviously if the spaces for a Gypsy sell out you can probably always get a ride in a Canter, but with loads of others, in a diesel, trying to spot wildlife, no thanks.

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