Apr 20 2009

Last Day In India

Today marks our last full day in India.

It's quite sad to think we're leaving tomorrow but it does feel like we've been here a long time and to be honest I fancy eating some vegetables that haven't been mullered to death. I've been surprised by the lack of fruit in the restaurants too so it'll be nice to eat an apple: how odd?

I've lined up for Namaste India Tours to pick us up at 11am (in twenty minutes) to take us around a few of the sights I want the girls to see, including the wonderful Humayun's Tomb that I remember fondly from my last visit.

Last night we tried to count the list of monuments, tombs and palaces we've visited, safaris we've done and animals we've seen but we failed: we've done and seen so much.

Thank you for following this blog, it's been really nice thinking that friends and family have enjoyed reading the articles and seeing the pictures. We'll hopefully see some of you in a few days.

We've truly had a wonderful holiday.

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Apr 19 2009

Karim's Restaurant Delhi - Too Good To Waste

One of the favourite non-veg eateries in Delhi is Karim's which has been around for over a century in the congested back streets of Old Delhi.

I'd heard Karim's was difficult to find and I was more than pleased when we arranged with IndiaMike's Kabaary to meet there for a meal - it's one of his (many I guess) favourite restaurants. Unfortunately Kabaary works a lot harder than me and was out of the country so we ventured to Karim's by ourselves, never really expecting to find it.

Directions to Karim's I'd read before were: get to Jama Masjid's south entrance, head down the road opposite, go down a tiny lane after 100 yards and find Karim's. It didn't seem likely that we'd find it but Karim's is such a busy place I just kept looking left whenever I saw people head off down an alleyway. (To be fair the brightly lit neon sign saying something like "Karim's is down that lane opposite this sign" did help somewhat.)

The restaurant was rammed with Indian families and there was only one other pair of westerners. We sat down and ordered so much food as it was all so cheap it was hard not to.

It's famed for kebabs (sheesh, shami) and barbecued-type food like mutton burra (yum). We ordered a couple of each of the kebabs on the menu so that the girls would find something without much spice: it didn't really happen, it was all pretty spiced up, especially the gorgeous shami kebabs which had a center full of chopped green chillies.

One thing I just had to try was the Brain Curry - yep, you read it right - and whilst it was okay I doubt I'll be ordering it again. Worth a try though.

I ate soooooo much but we must have left enough food for two people to have a proper meal. I wasn't pleased with my gluttonous behaviour but we had to try lots of stuff to fully appreciate the place. The whole thing, with soft drinks including LOTS of water, came to Rs1100, that's about £15.

@Kabaary: you said you might have to stop posting on IndiaMike if we didn't like Karim's. You needn't have worried.

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Apr 18 2009

Sariska National Park

Another early wake up call today as we went on our final safari of the trip, this time to Sariska National Park, between Jaipur and Delhi.

Sariska has always been overshadowed by its neighbouring Ranthambhore as there's been more tigers and Ranthambhore for many years. In 2005 Sariska hit the headlines big time when the tiger population, estimated at 20/25, completely disappeared overnight. Many stories discuss what happened but it's believed that they were all poached after locals were bribed. Whatever actually happened doesn't actually matter, it's just very, very sad.

Within the last few months a total of three tigers have been moved from Ranthambhore, where the tiger population is (allegedly) growing. (Maybe if they hadn't had moved those three I might have had a better glimpse of a tiger at Ranthambhore!)

We'd planned to go to Sariska way before I'd heard that there were actually tigers there but of course knowing about them added a bit of excitement during the safari. Of course, we never saw one, nor any other of the cats that are meant to live there. But if the lady at our hotel is to be believed then she saw one tiger, one leopard and a jungle cat, all in a single safari. So there's hope for Sariska.

Part way through the safari you enter the 'tiger re-introduced area' and stop to view some of the pugmarks (paw prints) cast in plaster. Not very interesting but there's some very tame Treepies (think colourful Magpies) there that will eat from your hand. Of course, the girls were too scared to try it so Dad got thrust forward - Jane had the video camera - to feed them. I put a piece of Marks and Sparks finest shortbread (that we'd carried around the whole of Rajasthan!) in my palm and held my uncovered arm out. It would have been wise to have worn long sleeves that day. Three treepies landed, had a fight on my arm, clawed me, ate and flew off. Not so nice; I tried again and only one bird, so no fighting, much better.

We did nice loads of wildlife on the safari and I'd really recommend Sariska to anyone passing by; it's certainly worth a visit. We saw birds (kingfishers, treepies, egrets, storks, herons and more), crocodiles, sambar deer, chittal deer and more.

It wasn't particularly cheap for us and we had to pay Rs1000 (15 quid) for a taxi there. Then entrance fees we're Rs200 each (apart from Amy who was free), Rs125 jeep entry ticket and Rs900 paid separately to the man with the jeep. So, Rs1625 (about 23 quid) for the safari and Rs1000 get there (which was way overpriced but we had little choice).

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Apr 18 2009

Outdrinking The Locals

At the poolside of the Alwar Bagh I was blogging away on the owner's laptop and a set of 6 guys jumped in for a swim. When Jane and the girls left to go back to the room for a shower one of the guys went a got a bottle of whisky and some glasses from the restaurant, as they others got changed. Seems that they'd jumped in the pool in their undies and were a tad embarassed about getting out when Jane was around. How funny is that?

I got up to leave and they asked me to join them for a drink, which of course I refused. But they asked again and I caved in quickly, after all, we're talking free whisky here!

None of us had had anything to eat so it didn't take long to start feeling the alcohol, especially for me, as you probably know, I don't really drink. Oi, stop laughing, it's true.

We had a really good laugh over the next hour, chatting about Indian customs against English ones and the guys did really practising their English. It was funny for me when one of the most vocal pre-ordered his meal, Chicken Makhanwala (Butter Chicken): I suggested that it's a meal for girls and that real men would order a Chicken Jafragi (read Jalfrezi), but he wouldn't have any of it, saying that he couldn't handle the spice. My Jafragi that night tasted great.

So I'm glad to say that I was the one that drank the bottle dry that night. It doesn't happen often so I'm proud of myself.

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Apr 14 2009

Ranthambhore Safaris

Ranthambhore seems a nice place to relax a little. Our hotel has a nice pool and nice gardens, the room's okay and the food hasn't killed me yet - I doubt it'll take much to finish me off, maybe just a "wafer thin mint" will do it.

So early to bed as the safari started at 6am, alarm set for 5am, kids set their mental alarm to start moaning at 5:05am that it's too early and they just want more sleep.

We get picked up by our eight seater jeep; four seats for us; one for the driver; one for the guide/naturalist; two for a father and son from 'up north' in Matlock. And we're off, off on our first safari in India. I'm so excited, click my 70-300 zoom on the SLR and I'm all set.

We're been allocated zone 3 which I've heard is one of the best so this just adds to the excitement.

In the park we see loads of deer/antelopes, many species of birds and I'm astounded at how often the scenery changes compared to my travels in the Serengeti, Tsavo and Amboseli.

Click, click, click. And again. And again.

Suddenly word gets around that a tiger has been spotted in the long (8 foot tall) grass near one of the lakes. We wait, and a bit more waiting, followed by more waiting split up by some more waiting. About 30 minutes in total it seems.

Suddenly the tiger leaps out of the grass, two hundred or so yards away, chasing a wild boar, which she misses. Dejected, she goes back to the grass: it's all over in 60 seconds.

Our first tiger spot. Fantastic. I'm chuffed.

Photos are here

 

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Apr 14 2009

The Overnight Train From Udaipur To Jaipur

Those that have spoken to me about catching the overnight train will know that it's something I was anxious about. Being a Dad just means that you get to carry all the luggage and with a suitcase/rucsack each plus a backpack I've got a lot of carrying to do. Train stations in India are very busy and apparently you're likely to get your wallet lifted - although I'd fancy my chances here more than at night in Fareham, Southampton or Portsmouth.

We arrive at the station and I check our tickets are okay and which carriage we're on and which first class cabins we've got allocated. Looks like we're split up but never mind, we'll cope.

So we find out where our carriage will stop and we wait. I notice a family of 11 waiting too and I guess they're on First Class too. The train pulls in and our carriage has a cross between two-tier air con class and first class which means there's only about 10 first class berths. The doors open and the French family rush on board and claim all 10 first class berths! We get on and have nowhere to go. Great, I think, but I've got confirmed tickets and my name is on chart on the outside of the train. I check their e-ticket, they booked after me and only have 5 confirmed tickets, the other 6 are waitlisted (see other train booking article for info). They're in trouble, I'm not.

The daughter speaks fluent English so I explain their situation. They're not best pleased and I get the feeling that the Dad is going to get an ear-battering if they ever get to their destination, Agra.

The Train Ticket Examiner arrives, explains the situation as I did but they argue. So I tell them that he's offered them a way out with 6 berths in three-tier AC class. Either that or 6 passengers are staying in Udaipur.

Eventually they vacate our rooms and we go to sleep...and I haven't even mentioned Agincourt! (Emilie, Caro and Nico: sorry, it's an English joke, hope you're not offended.)

We arrive an hour late at 7am at Jaipur and eventually find our driver to take us to Ranthambhore, home of the tigers, and I'm relieved on three counts: we survived the train; we've got a taxi; this means that our reservation at the Raj Palace is good too as they sent the taxi to Jaipur.

So all my worries were unfounded and I'm really glad that I'd read (IndiaMike's) Steven_ber's brilliant article about wait listed train tickets before I got to India. Shame those French people didn't.

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Apr 10 2009

Udaipur Hotel - Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel - Lovely

We're staying in the first hotel booked by ourselves, since Namaste India Tours dropped us here a couple of days ago. 

Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel

 

The hotel is lovely, right on the bank of Lake Pichola (which doesn't have much water in it at the moment, not till after the monsoon) and has bay windows which overhang the lake.  

relaxing in the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel

 We've got a room that is at the back of the hotel but has a view, through the windows of the restaurant, of the lake. It's really nice; our best hotel yet. 

Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel

 

When you're here you just can't help staring at the Lake Palace hotel...no Jane it's the other way.

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Apr 09 2009

Horse Riding In Udaipur - by Emilia

Early in the morning, I awoke because I was going to ride an indian horse; I was excited.

In my mind I thought: what are the horses going to be like?; how tall are they (10 feet tall - only joking)?; how fast are they?

Half an hour later, my mum, sister and I caught a tuk-tuk to the stables, when then got ridiculous hats which were large; mine was light sky blue! Next, we went to get our horses, mine was chestnut brown. Amazingly, I managed to get on the horse without a box to stand on; this for me was a great achievement as I normally use one when I go horse riding in England.

 I was lead through the countryside, the hills, countryside villages and rocky slopes. In the villages, everyone who we passed said 'Namaste' to us and was very friendly.

Afterwards, we went to a waterhole, there were boys fishing and having a swim; they caught two fish. Funnily, there was a boy who was naked, he jumped into the water and acted like a fish and did backflips off of a rock.

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Apr 09 2009

That's The Last Time I Joke About Dysentry!

So there's been no updates for the last couple of days and I think the title of this page explains the reason why: I've been pretty darn poorly.

It's laughable really: I spent ages making sure we had enough medication for the girls and we kept an eye on what they wanted to eat, keeping it safe etc, whilst good old me went hell for leather and ate every type of curry going. What a mistake. What a BIG mistake.

The moment we left Jodhpur on our 7 hour road trip to Udaipur I knew I was in trouble. I was really looking forward to seeing the Jain temple at Ranakpur and managed to pull myself together and enjoy it. After that it was all downhill. Even the complimentary trip by Namaste India Tours to the wonderful (so I've heard) Kumbhalgarh Fort couldn't awaken any interest from me. I spent the next three hours on windy country roads with my head stuck out of the car window.

After arriving at our wonderful hotel, the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel, I holed up in the room and didn't come out for 2 whole days. I hadn't eaten anything for 60 hours and you'll understand that for me is a big thing. At least I might get some weight loss out of this!

Hopefully, I'm on the mend now, I've eaten a little and I'm starting to enjoy Udaipur.

BTW, you can all stop laughing now.

Here's a picture from our hotel:

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Apr 05 2009

Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur - by Kev

I keep waking up at 5am but today I'm not bothered as I'm excited to see possibly the best fort in Rajasthan, if not India, Mehrangarh in Jodhpur.

A lazy breakfast later and at 10am Kamal is ready to take us to Mehrangarh, it's already very hot. Mehrangarh dominates the skyline here and the closer you get the more impressive it gets

 

We toured the fort for 3.5 hours, which is a record for me as I normally get bored after 1.5 or 2 hours. I've come to the conclusion that this will always be one of my favourite places to visit, surpassing perhaps even the Taj Mahal.

 

The sheer size of the thing is impressive from far or near, but the real beauty, just like that Taj Mahal, can only be seen close up.

 

I don't think I've read how long the fort took to build but it must have been years and years as the carving in virtually every sandstone wall is exquisite.

 

The coloured glass work was very beautiful within the dark rooms with the sunlight flooding through the glass.

 

We hadn't even realised that there wasn't a hawker or seller in sight, no hassle, whatsoever: are we still in India?

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